Let me start today's post by sharing something rather embarrassing. when i was younger, i used to stay over at my cousin's place during the school holidays. no, that's not the embarrassing bit yet. at the end of the holidays, especially for the longer breaks in june and december, i used to be really reluctant to go home, to the point of crying and stuff during lower primary school days. the reason i'm mentioning this is because that's more or less how i felt at kansai airport before my flight back to singapore. lucky i'm older now, and have better control of my emotions.
anyway, the japan trip was great! we did quite a lot of stuff in 10 days, so much so that i've got about 1200 pictures to show for it. there are some repeats, though, which means i'll be filtering stuff before uploading anything to facebook. it seems that facebook has increased the maximum number of photos per album from 200 to 1000. don't know when this happened, but it probably shows how long i haven't uploaded photos. despite the increase, i still have to remove 200-odd photos to make 1000...which, on the bright side, is definitely easier than removing 1000 photos to make 200.
given that our itinerary was quite packed, plus my poor memory, it's highly unlikely that i'll be able to give an accurate recollection in chronological order. therefore, i think i'll just do a kind of semi-chronological highlights reel, plus my thoughts and reflections on the stuff that's happened. for a better idea of what happened, you might want to take a look at my photos when i upload them.
everything started in tokyo, and i flew there by scoot. the flight timing was pretty good, leaving singapore after midnight and arriving in japan in the late morning after a transit in taiwan. for once, i had a really good sleep on the plane! was basically unconscious for the bulk of the flight, probably because i was tired from the flight back from melbourne. also, the seats were much more comfortable, and reclined further than the seats on the previous flights i'd been on. think it's the model of the plane itself. transiting in taiwan was kind of confusing, because there were no clear instructions on where to go or what to do. eventually, i figured out what to do, and made good time for the flight to japan.
arriving in japan was kind of emotional. the foremost thought in my mind at that time was, 'i'm finally here'. it was ridiculously exciting! cleared immigration and customs with relative ease, then bought a suica card (japan's equivalent of an EZ-link card) and went to the hostel. the train ride took an hour, and cost 1000 yen. kind of worth it for the distance, i guess. got a little lost (and wet; it was raining) while trying to find the hostel, but made excellent time in the end. i arrived like 3 hours before check-in time. having so much time to kill, i decided to make my pilgrimage to the kodokan, which was about 4 stops away by train. how lucky is that?
at the kodokan, i dropped in on the 2 sensei who came to singapore earlier, and also got the dan certificates and membership cards. at the same time, i went to collect the huge order of judo merchandise. they forgot my black belt, so i arranged to come back another day. meeting the people behind the internet shop was kind of scary, actually. turns out the company is run by a husband and wife team. while i've been corresponding with the wife over email, she wasn't at the office. the husband is a middle-aged guy, who fortunately for me, speaks decent english. when he found out i was on holiday, he recommended some must-see tourist spots, and even drew me a map! totally wasn't expecting that. i just found it a little...awkward, because i didn't really see a good break in the conversation to excuse myself. plus, goodness knows how many japanese and possibly etiquette mistakes i made. it also happened that there was the monthly shiai (competition) at the kodokan, so i went to watch. their competition rules are slightly different from the IJF ones, and the standard of competition is much higher. then again, they are japanese, after all.
my friends arrived the next day, so i went to ueno station to wait for them. waited for about an hour before giving up and going back to the hostel, where i found them waiting. turns out they went via tokyo station instead, so we totally missed each other. since they were tired from their flight, we didn't do much. guess now would be a pretty good time to talk about our hostel. for tokyo, the place we stayed in is called toco. there are 3 meanings to the word, depending on the kanji..."floor", "grace", and one more i can't remember. it's kind of a rustic place, 92 year-old building, mini-mt. fuji (fuji-zuka) made of rocks from the actual mountain, bunk beds made of really solid wood. yet, it was modern enough to have good showers and toilets, plus computers and wifi. it was my first time staying in a hostel, so that was a bit intimidating. it's a bit like army, i guess, where you share a room with strangers. difference is, the strangers come and go depending on their booking dates, so you don't really make friends that easily. nevertheless, the staff and frequent visitors to the bar (yes, there's a bar in the lounge) are really nice, so making friends with them was kind of easy even for me. as part of the plan to encourage socializing, guests get one free half-sized drink per night. it provides a reason to hang around the bar/lounge, plus i guess the alcohol helps to encourage conversation.
during my stay in the hostel, i met people from taiwan, korea, china, america, colombia, sweden, malaysia, argentina, ireland, (of course) japan, and even some other people from singapore! was interesting to talk to them and learn about their countries, cultures, and languages. some of us even went sightseeing together. while talking to the taiwanese people, i realize that i prefer their accent to mainland chinese. somehow, taiwanese chinese is softer/more melodious, and much nicer to listen to.
within tokyo, we went to asakusa, daiba, shibuya, shinjuku, harajuku, ginza, and akihabara. not sure if i missed anything out, but that should cover most of it. we spent a day visiting sensou-ji and daiba. incidentally, the "sensou" in sensou-ji is written with the same kanji as "asakusa". just different pronunciation. i remember going to sensou-ji during my last japan trip, about 10 years ago. saw the huge kaminari-mon (thunder gate) and went to ask for my fortune at the temple. got a lucky lot, but it said my wish wouldn't come true. guess that was because i wasn't really focusing when i was shaking the box. it did say that things looked well for my job and marriage. i can understand job-wise, but marriage? not too sure about that. at daiba, we went to see the giant gundam, and also to the capcom store, where my friends bought some monster hunter merchandise. in between, we stopped at the tokyo sky tree. unlike last time, where i had the vague memory of going up the tokyo tower (or some other tall structure), we didn't go up the sky tree because various sources had said it wasn't worth it.
the next day was spent going to all the other locations with my friend's japanese friend. don't remember the exact order, but we started at shinjuku and ended in ginza. the highlight for me was visiting shibuya station, where i saw the huge cross-walk and the hachikou statue. we also went to tower records, where i briefly contemplated buying a few concert DVDs. didn't get anything in the end, though. there was a michael jackson handprint, too! quite a nice place. the rest of the places weren't that memorable, though...probably because they were shopping districts, and i wasn't too interested in shopping. in the evening, my friend dragged us down to ginza, because he wanted to visit a bar and see the bartender in action. unfortunately, he didn't do his research properly, and the bar was closed. i'll have more to say about this friend later.
after that, the following 2 days were spent taking day trips out of tokyo, together with another 3 guys from SMU. first day was spent going to the area around mt. fuji, where we split up for a bit. i went with 2 other guys to an onsen (hot spring), while the rest weren't so interested and went down to the lake. the onsen was a nice experience. though the water was hotter than i would normally like, it was also extremely relaxing. could feel the aches and pains dissolve away. too bad it didn't really do much for my knee injury though. after we joined up with the others again, we went to the bat caves and lava caves. they're a bit misnamed, though. no bats or lava in sight. yes, it was a joke. we observed an interesting phenomenon on the stairs leading to the lava caves. up to a certain level, the temperature was normal. but take just one step down, and the temperature dropped dramatically. strange thing is i couldn't feel it at all from the upper step!
on the second day, we went to nikko, where we split up again due to time constraints. i had to be back in tokyo in the afternoon to collect my judo stuff, so i only had half a day for sightseeing. so, i went along with another friend to see 4 famous shrines. also went to see tokugawa's tomb, which was packaged along with this sleeping cat thing. the sleeping cat was a rip-off, i think. just a carved cat over a doorway. the ticket was 520 yen, so we were joking that the price was split into 500 yen for the tomb, 20 yen for the cat. due to the lack of time, our tour was kind of rushed. at least we managed to see most of the shrines. completely missed out on the waterfall, which was unfortunate. but at least the others took photos, so i'm not missing out completely. at night, we went to a nearby yakitori stand for a snack, where a nice working lady paid for what we ate. so paiseh! i tried to return the money, but she wouldn't accept it. think she felt for us as fresh grads, because she kept asking if we had secured jobs and about our plans for the future. have to pass this kindness forward in future.
i had wanted to go down to tsukiji fish market on the last day in tokyo, but laziness kind of put a stop to that plan. well, that gives me another reason to go back sometime in the future. after some packing, we took the shinkansen to osaka, then changed trains for the hostel, which was literally a stone's throw away from the station. don't think we did all that much that first day in osaka...just laundry, and exploring the surrounding area in general.
for osaka, we stayed at this hostel called bonsai garden. it's kind of opposite to toco. the toco building is low and wide, whereas bonsai garden is tall and narrow. it's also more modern-looking, with metal bed frames and a TV. showers and toilets were about the same for both, so not much comparison. the "opposite" theme also extended to the staff, who weren't as friendly as the toco staff. don't get me wrong...they were nice and willing to help, just that they didn't take the initiative to interact with the guests. and speaking of the guests, the demographic was quite different. there were australians, french, and people from the UK. as a result, bonsai garden felt less homey than toco. there was also quite clear racial segregation...ang mohs mostly kept to themselves, and didn't really interact with the asians. really felt more like a tourist place. on the topic of opposites, the weather was opposite, too. tokyo was mostly sunny, whereas the rain in osaka only stopped on the morning i left.
there's not much to see in osaka itself, so we went on day trips to kyoto and nara. for nara, we went to the deer park, where i fed the deer. some deer actually asked for food by bowing, and bowed again after they were done eating! so quintessentially japanese. one important lesson i learnt here was never to wander into a group of deer holding a pack of shika senbei (deer crackers/biscuits, special food for feeding the deer). you get swarmed! and they bite, too. pro tip: hide the food in your bag while you're in the store, and take the crackers out one by one when you want to feed the deer. nevertheless, they were ridiculously cute! and their antlers of the younger deer (i think) were fuzzy, which was interesting. in addition, we also went to toudai-ji, where i saw the HUGE buddha statue. there was also a hole in a pillar which was supposed to bring good fortune if you successfully crawled through. as tempted as i was to try, the odds of me getting stuck was a little too high for my liking. didn't want to see any other places (plus my friends wanted to go shopping), so we went back to osaka to explore shinsaibashi. it was huge and confusing. we went to uniqlo, where they bought some stuff. then, had dinner at this chinese ramen place. was...normal, and easily my most underwhelming meal in japan.
spent the last day of the trip in kyoto. there were 6 major attractions that we had wanted to see, but we only made 3 in the end. since the last destination on our priority lists were different, we split up (again) after visiting the first 2 places. first was the fushimi inari shrine. "fushimi" because that's where it's located, "inari" because that's the patron deity. though the name probably sounds foreign, i'm sure you'd recognize the place if i showed you a photo. you see, the shrine is famous for it's many orange torii (gates), which are lined up along some of the walking trails. while i was there, i also bought a pretty big stuffed fox to keep my lion company. i think judo stuff aside, that's the only other souvenir purchase i made for myself. it was only after i left the place when i realized that i should have got some for the admin office people as well. but it would have been too late to go back. bleh.
next stop was kiyomizu-dera, which i remember going to 10 years ago as well. tried to find the shop that sold my dragon keychain, but couldn't. either the shop closed down, or i remembered the place wrongly. more likely it's the latter. at the temple, i offered a prayer for someone (not telling who in case it doesn't come true, though i expect you can guess who). it felt...good, i guess, despite me not having a religion. i think it's the assurance (real or imagined) that someone else is watching over someone you care about. at the end of the visit, there were 3 streams coming off the roof of a building, and guests could use long-handled ladles to get the water for drinking. the interesting thing was that the ladles were UV-sterilized between uses. quite cool seeing the modern, metal UV sterilizer alongside the wood and stone. i realize that japan blends ancient culture and architecture with modern technological advances very well. like, a temple can be sandwiched between two buildings, and not look out of place. there was also the love stones, which promised that true love would come soon if you could make your way from one stone to the other (about 15m walk) with your eyes closed. i managed to do it, so i'm just waiting for the right person to drop in any time now. while the others went to see nijo castle, the last destination for me was ginkaku-ji. this one was more of a calm, zen place than a tourist attraction. still had to buy a ticket though. there was a very nice sand garden, along with a nature trail. was planning on going to kinkaku-ji (ginkaku-ji's slightly more valuable brother), but by the time i was done, it was already past their closing time. no big loss for me...i always did like silver better, anyway. the rest of the time was pretty uneventful...just dinner, going back to hostel, and flying back the next day.
so, that about sums up my trip. now, for the thoughts and reflections. there's one thing this trip confirmed for me, and that is the fact that i would like to HAVE TO end up in japan. it's crazy! i like it to the point that even though the tokyo rush hour is way worse than singapore's, i didn't feel the same sense of irritation that i do back here. i guess it's because the japanese people are ridiculously considerate. everyone's doing their best to not be a nuisance, which i think is something most of the people in singapore can learn from. and speaking of the people, they're so nice! despite the communication barrier, they still go all out to try and help you. of course, they may be cursing and swearing on the inside, but i'm ok if i don't know about it. and as a bonus, the general population is SO much better-looking than singaporeans! or maybe that's my biased view. but seriously, i don't think i saw any japanese person whom i would call "ugly". still, that's just a minor plus point i guess.
but japan has its negative points as well. for one, prices are generally higher than in singapore. for instance, taking the tokyo metro train for a distance of between 1 to 3 stops costs 160 yen, which is about S$2. a meal at a typical ramen shop can set you back close to 1000 yen (~S$12), easy. that becomes a problem when you don't do the maths before making certain purchases. this time round, i admit that i spent money a little too freely, mostly on food and drinks. i suppose part of the issue was the illusion caused by the coins. you see, japan's biggest coin (both in size and value) is 500 yen, which is actually S$6! in singapore, the most valuable coin we see in daily life is $1, so we (i) tend not to care about using coins up quickly. that becomes a problem with the 500 yen coin. actually, i was doing some calculations in japan, and i realized that i spent much more than i'd thought on food and drinks. lucky i brought enough to spend what i did, and still come home with some extra. looks like my aunt was right about taking some extra money.
oh. by the way, NUS japanese 4 is definitely not sufficient to blend in with the locals. sure, i can more or less communicate, but once i open my mouth, they can definitely tell i'm not local. nevertheless, all those japanese modules came in useful, as i was able to understand the keigo which the service people (shopkeepers, wait staff, receptionists, etc.) used. i realize that even now, i don't know when is a good time to switch to plain form. when meeting someone of equal status, polite form is normally used, until a certain point when it becomes ok to switch to plain form. the switch implies that you're more comfortable with each other, and have a closer relationship. i have trouble determining when that certain point in time is. need more practice. even though i know about 500 verbs, nouns, and adjectives, i realize that there are still gaping holes in my vocabulary...things that japanese people learn as kids, but which are not taught in a university-level japanese language course. menu items, for instance, posed a pretty big problem. while i could read the hiragana and katakana, i had no idea what they meant. plus the adverbial expressions (japanese equivalent of "clearly", "soon", "most of", "rarely" etc.) also posed a problem.
one thing i was extremely impressed with was the transport system. despite being expensive, it was super precise. like, they had train arrival times down to the minute. plus, the high-speed trains were super cool! i tend to think of them not as superpowered trains, but as underpowered aeroplanes, because that's really what they remind me of. somehow, i get the feeling that the designers worked down from planes instead of working up from trains.
food was something else that i was generally really happy about. like i told my friends, i haven't had a meal in japan that i didn't like. i think it's part presentation and part taste. i enjoyed eating in japan much more than in singapore. not that i'm saying singapore food on a whole tastes bad or anything, but the japanese food in singapore really can't compare. the closest match in terms of standard would probably cost too much to have regularly. oddly, i didn't find myself having cravings for singaporean food while i was there. maybe i haven't been away long enough to experience that.
dressing, too, was quite a culture shock. since it was summer, i brought along some bermudas and slippers. you know, typical singaporean university kid attire. but once i was there, i stuck to jeans and shoes all the way. i swear, i did not see a single person in shorts on the street while i was in tokyo. guess it's the societal pressure, but i felt obliged to not stand out too much.
after this trip, i think the biggest takeaway for me is this: if you have even the slightest bit of doubt about going on a trip with someone, don't go. i went with 3 other friends, and after this experience, i think i would only choose to travel with one of them again. of course, i don't know their opinions about me, and it would be quite presumptuous to assume that i'm the perfect travelling companion. so, please bear in mind that i have my faults as well. of the 2 people i wouldn't like to travel with again, there's one i have a minor problem with, and one i have a major problem with. let's do minor first. the main reason i don't want to travel with this guy is because he was too preoccupied with money. i mean, we're all travelling on a budget (maybe me not so much), but do you have to let us all know how much you've spent every day? at the risk of sounding like i've got a problem, i think people should travel within their means. like if going to a more expensive country, either set aside more money, live really cheap (and don't complain!), or don't go. plus, something about the things he says just annoys me. i know he doesn't mean any harm or offense, but it wasn't nice hearing some of the things he said.
the other person, however, presented a much more serious problem. i don't know about you, but for myself personally, i think we should try to adapt to the host country's culture. i knew that this guy was obnoxious in singapore. i didn't expect him to stand out so much (in a negative way) in japan! in fact, he was like the typical bad american tourist stereotype, only in asian form! you see, he has this "i'm a tourist" mentality, which he uses to justify his out-of-place actions, which he feels totally no shame for. things like mixing soy sauce with wasabi (big no-no over there), for instance. there were so many times i felt like hitting him over the head with an umbrella, it wasn't funny. and the way he talks, goodness. there are some things you can't say! and he said those things...loudly, too. the japanese don't show their displeasure outright, but i can bet most of the people he asked for help were cringing inside. i was cringing just watching him! worst of all, he doesn't respect the japanese culture. i mean, calling kiyomizu temple "koizumi temple" in front of a japanese person is just moronic. by the time i left japan, i'd lost count of the number of times i wanted to yell at him, or actually yelled at him. suffice to say that i never ever want to go anywhere out of singapore with him. nevertheless, i think the 4 of us can remain friends...just that i have to avoid prolonged interaction. overnight stays are at just about the limit.
overall, i had a good time. definitely want to go back as soon as i can. seems that a few chem kids (mainly the phd students) may go in december, so that's something to look forward to, i guess. even if that doesn't happen, i'm definitely not going to wait another 10 years for my next trip.
back on the singapore front, HAZE. i'd been following the news even while in japan, and was kind of worried when the PSI shot up. in fact, i was briefly considering extending my stay in japan, but the hassle of getting new flight dates and extending my hostel booking (subject to availability on both counts) put me off. thankfully, the haze kind of got better in time for my arrival yesterday. it's set to worsen in the coming week, so i guess i should go to the lab ASAP to drop the souvenirs off and to get a spare N95 mask. i'm quite sure we have a few more lying around somewhere. also, if i ever had the opportunity to meet that particular brainless indonesian minister, i'd have a few choice (rude) words for him. how on earth does a person who talks without thinking (and saying such idiotic stuff, to boot) get a ministerial position!? seriously.
next week, i'll probably be delivering stuff to various places, namely NUS, SJF, and CJC. have to talk to my professor, too, to see that his plans are and whether they're in line with my own plans. the graduate medical checkup and collection of commencement dress is still some time away (i set them for the same day), so no worries there yet. also have to submit a CD copy of my thesis, remind my dad about getting a car, and talk to the CJC coach. which reminds me. i wonder if training will be cancelled due to haze? all in all, though there's a fair bit of stuff to do, there's also a lot of time in which to do those stuff. net result is that it's going to be pretty slack, which is good. don't want to exert myself too much with this horrible weather.
-random thought of the day: I miss Japan already.-